How to measure a pot for compost
Measure the usable inside, not the outside rim. For a straight-sided round pot, measure the internal diameter and the depth you will actually fill. For a tapered pot, measure both the top and bottom internal diameters. For a rectangular planter, use internal length, width and fill depth.
The tapered-pot formula
For a round tapered pot, the calculator uses the volume of a truncated cone: V = πh(R² + Rr + r²) ÷ 3, where R and r are the top and bottom radii and h is fill depth. You only need to provide the measurements; the tool handles the formula.
Leave room for watering and plants
RHS container guidance commonly positions plant rootballs so the finished compost surface sits below the rim; its general container guide uses about 5cm below the rim when positioning rootballs. For some specific edible-container examples the stated gap is smaller. The practical point is not to calculate to the physical brim unless that is genuinely your intended fill line.
Repotting is not the same as filling an empty pot
If a rootball moves into a larger pot, it already occupies volume. Calculate the empty container capacity only as an upper bound, then account for the plant and any compost you are retaining. RHS repotting guidance describes back-filling around an existing rootball rather than replacing the whole container volume.
Worked examples
A straight round pot with a 40cm internal diameter filled to 35cm has a volume of about 44 litres. A rectangular 80cm × 30cm planter filled to 30cm holds 72 litres. Three identical planters therefore need 216 litres before allowing for rootballs, old compost or a lower fill line.
Common mistakes
- Measuring the outside of a thick-walled pot.
- Treating a tapered pot as a full cylinder.
- Using the full physical height when the compost will stop below the rim.
- Buying for the full empty volume when a rootball or existing material occupies part of it.
- Forgetting to multiply by the number of matching containers.